Cutting Quality Control in apparel industry

Cutting Quality Control.

cÖkœ t Cutting Kv‡K e‡j ?

D t †Kvb D‡Ïk¨‡K ev¯Íevqb Kivi Rb¨ wb`„ó gvc w`‡q †Kvb wKQz KZ©b Kiv‡KB Cutting e‡j|

cÖkœ t Cutting department quality control Kv‡K e‡j ?

D t †cvkv‡Ki ¸bMZ gvb DbœZ Kivi Rb¨ Cutting section G †h mg¯Í points ¸wji Dci quality control Kiv nq Zvnv‡K Cutting department quality control e‡j|

cÖkœ t Cutting Gi cÖ‡qvRbxqZv Av‡jvPbv Ki ?

D t Cutting Gi cÖ‡qvRbxqZv wb‡¤œ Av‡jvPbv Kiv nj|

1. Good sewing beginning with good cutting bad cutting will result in sewing defect excessive repair and slowed production.

2. Cutting Avgv‡`i e‡¯¿i Afve `yi K‡i|

3. Cutting Avgv‡`i Avw_©K mnvqZv K‡i|

4. Cutting Avgv‡`i we‡`kx‡`i m‡½ m¤úK© eRvq ivL‡Z mnvqZv K‡i|

cÖkœ t Cutting department ‡K Kq fv‡M fvM Kiv n‡q‡Q I wK wK? Av‡jvPbv Ki?

D t Cutting department ‡K cÖavbZ `yB fv‡M fvM Kiv n‡q‡Q| h_v t-

1. Spreading Quality Control. 2. Cutting Quality Control.

Spreading Quality Control.

Cutting Department G cutting Kivi c~‡e© Lay ‡`Iqvi mgq †h mg¯Í points ¸wji Dci Quality control Kiv nq Zv‡K Spreading Quality control e‡j|

Spreading Quality Control Gi `kwU c‡q›U Av‡Q| h_v t-

1. Table marking ( †Uwe‡ji Dci `vM Uvbv )

2. Ends ( †kl cÖvšÍ )

3. Leaning ( Sz‡j cov ev †n‡j cov )

4. Tension ( UvbUvb fve ev mvfvweK Ae¯’v )

5. Narrow Goods ( msKxb© `ªe¨ )

6. Remnants ( Aewkôvsk )

7. Counts ( MYbv Kiv )

8. Fly Height ( ¯Í‡ii D”PZv )

9. Fabric Flaws ( Kvc‡oi †`vl ÎæwU )

10. Marker placing ( gvK©vi Gi Ae¯’vb ev gvK©vi Gi mwVK ¯’vcbv )

wb‡gœ Spreading Quality Control Gi points ¸wj Av‡jvPbv Kiv nB‡jv t-

1. Table marking : Table marking k‡ãi A_© Table Gi Dci `vM Uvbv|

Table Gi Wvb w`‡K Spreader Gi Pvwn`v Abymv‡i 90 mg‡Kv‡b Table Gi Dci Length I Width G mij †iLv Uvbv nq Zv‡K Table marking e‡j| Table marking wZb w`‡K Kiv nq|

Table marking Spreading Quality Control Gi AZ¨šÍ ¸iæZ¡c~b© GKwU points Table marking fzj n‡j m¤úyb© Cutting ev` nIqvi m¤¢vebv Av‡Q| Leaning n‡Z cv‡i Ges Cutting Gi ci Fabric ev Panel/Parts Bias n‡e|

2. Ends : Ends k‡ãi A_© †kl cÖvšÍ ev cÖvšÍ mxgv End †_‡K Ends Gi DrcwË| Table marking Gi `yB cÖv‡šÍ Marker Gi †P‡q Cutting Gi myweav‡_© 1/2 BwÂ †_‡K 1 BwÂ cwigvb †h Allowance ivLv nq Zv‡K Ends e‡j|

Ends n‡jv Cutting Allowance, Ends Allowance Kg n‡j Narrow Goods nIqvi m¤¢vebv Av‡Q Ges Ends Allowance ‡ekx n‡j Fabric ‡ekx bó n‡e|

3. Leaning : k‡ãi A_© Sz‡j cov ev †n‡j cov| Lay ‡`Iqvi mgq Fabric hw` Square position G bv ‡_‡K Table marking Gi wfZ‡i ev evwn‡i Sz‡j c‡o Zv n‡j Zv‡K Leaning e‡j|

Leaning n‡j Narrow Goods n‡Z cv‡i Cutting Gi ci Fabric Bias n‡Z cv‡i Ges †gRv‡g©›U †QvU eo n‡Z cv‡i|

4. Tension : k‡ãi A_© UvbUvb fve ev mvfvweK Ae¯’v Lay ‡`Iqvi mgq Fabric hw` Zvi ¯^vfvweK Ae¯’vq bv ‡_‡K Tight ev Loose nq ZLb Zv‡K Tension e‡j|

Tension Spreading Quality Control Gi GKwU Ab¨Zg mgm¨v Tension Gi d‡j Narrow Goods n‡Z cv‡i Cutting Gi ci Measurement short ev plus n‡Z cv‡i|

5. Narrow Goods k‡ãi A_© msKxb© `ªe¨ gvjvgv‡ji msKxb©Zv †j †`Iqvi mgq Fabric Gi Width hw` gvK©vi Gi Width Gi †P‡q Kg nq ZLb Zv‡K Narrow Goods e‡j|

Narrow Goods Gi Kvi‡b Mv‡g©›Um ˆZixi ci †gRv‡g©›U Kg n‡Z cv‡i | wZbwU Kvi‡b Narrow Goods nq|

1) Fabric Gi Tension hw` Tight ev Loose nq Zvn‡j Narrow Goods nq|

2) Lay ‡`Iqvi mgq Fabric hw` fvR c‡o _v‡K Zvn‡j Narrow Goods nq|

3) Root Gi Width hw` Marker Gi Width Gi †P‡q Kg nq Zvn‡j Narrow Goods nq|

6. Remnants k‡ãi A_© Aewkôvsk Fabric ‡_‡K iæj †jÓ Kivi ci wW‡dw±f cvU©m cwieZ©b Kivi Rb¨ D³ iæj †_‡K †h Aewkôvsk ivLv nq Zv‡K Remnants e‡j|

Fabric Defect Gi Dci Remnants ivLv nq Roll bv¤^vi I Cutting bv¤^vi I ivLv nq Remnants bv _vK‡j Defective parts cwieZ©b Kiv hv‡e bv eis Shading nIqvi m¤¢vebv Av‡Q|

7. Counts k‡ãi A_© MYbv Kiv †j Kivi mgq †j Gi msL¨v KZ n‡jv Zvnv Dfq cvk †_‡K MYbv Kiv‡KB Counts e‡j|

Counts Kg ev fzj n‡j Retio Abymv‡i Garments Kg ev †ekx n‡e | wZbwU wbq‡g Kiv nq|

a ) cÖwZ iæj Gi KZ †j n‡jv Zvnv Register G wjwce× K‡i Count Kiv nq|

b ) Lay Gi mv‡_ e‡m cÖwZ Lay ‡Z wmwiqvj Abymv‡i bv¤^vwis w÷Kvi jvwM‡q Count Kiv nq|

c ) Lay Kivi †k‡l Gi `yB cÖvšÍ †_‡K MYbv K‡i Count Kiv nq|

8. Fly Height k‡ãi A_© ¯Í‡ii D”PZv ‡j Kivi ci Gi D”PZv KZ n‡jv Zv wbb©q KivB Fly Height

Knife Gi avib ÿgZv Ges Fabric hard and soft Gi Dci Fly Height wbf©i K‡i|

Fly Height ‡ekx n‡j Ragged cutting n‡Z cv‡i|

9. Fabric Flaws k‡ãi A_© Kvc‡oi †`vl ÎæwU, GB RM‡Z †Kvb wKQz ÎæwU gy³ bq | AZtGe †dweª· Gi I wKQz †`vlÎæwU Av‡Q| †dweª· Gi †`vlÎæwU ¸wj‡K Fabric Flaws e‡j| †hgb t- Slub, Knot, Foreign yarn, Hole, Missing yarn, Warp bar, Weft bar, Broken pick, Thick yarn, Line mark, Stop mark, Crease mark, Shining mark, Oil mark, Press mark, Dyeing mark, Ring mark, Needle mark, Dirty spot, Dyeing spot, Print missing ETC.

10. Marker placing

Marker placing k‡ãi A_© gvK©vi Gi Ae¯’vb ev gvK©vi Gi mwVK ¯’vcbv , gvK©vi cwRm‡b Marker placingKiv nq| Marker placing Spreading Quality Control Gi GKwU ¸iæËc~b© welq Marker placing fzj n‡j Narrow Goods n‡e| Cutting Gi ci Fabric Bias n‡e| d‡j cyiv KvwUs ev` nIqvi m¤¢vebv Av‡Q|

Cutting Quality Control.

Cutting Kivi ci Cutting section G †h points ¸wji Dc‡i Quality control Kiv nq Zv‡K Cutting Quality control e‡j|

Cutting Quality control Av‡jvPbvi myweav‡_© `ywU As‡k fvM Kiv n‡q‡Q| h_v t-

1. Block check

2. Bundle check

1.Block check :

Block check Gi g‡a¨ 5wU points i‡q‡Q Block wb‡q 5wU points G 100 % check Ki‡Z n‡e| Points ¸wj n‡”Q t-

1. Pattern check

2. Miss cut (fzj KvU)

3. Ragged cutting ( G‡eªv‡_‡eªv KvwUs )

4. Notches ( KvU gvK© )

5. Matching Plies ( ¯Íi wgjv‡bv )

wb‡¤œ Block check Gi points ¸wj Av‡jvPbv Kiv n‡jv-

1. Pattern check : Cutting Kivi ci †h †Kvb Size Gi GKwU Block wb‡q H Size Gi Hard Pattern Øviv wgwj‡q †`Lv ev check Kiv‡KB Pattern check e‡j|

2. Miss Cut : Miss Cut k‡ãi A_© fzj KvUv Marker Gi wfZi ev evwn‡i hw` KvUv Xz‡K hvq Zv‡K Miss cut e‡j| Bnvi Tolerance 1/16 One sixteen.

3. Ragged Cutting : Ragged cutting k‡ãi A_© Amgvb ev G¨veª_¨veª KvUv GB G¨veª_¨veª Cutting ‡KB Ragged cutting e‡j| GUv Knife Gi avi bv _vK‡j nq|Table fvsMv ev Amgvb _vK‡j nq Ges A`ÿ Cutter man Gi Kvi‡b I nq|

4. Notches : Notches k‡ãi A_© KvU gvK©, †Kvb parts Gi wb`„ó ¯’v‡bi Rb¨ †h LuvR KvUv nq Zv‡K KvU gvK© ev Notches e‡j| Sewing Gi myweav‡_© KvU gvK© ivLv nq Ges †`Iqv nq| Bnvi Tolerance 1/8 One eight.

5. Matching plies : Matching plies k‡ãi A_© ¯Íi wgjv‡bv , Cutting Gi ci Bundle Gi Dc‡ii GK wcP, gv‡Si GK wcP, Ges wb‡Pi GK wcP, Hard pattern Gi mv‡_ wgwj‡q †`Lv‡KB Matching plies e‡j| Bnvi Tolerance 1/8 One eight.

2.Bundle check.

Bundle check G †`L‡Z n‡e Bundle no, Cutting no, Shade , Serial no, Quality, Size Pattern Gi mv‡_ wgj ev wVK Av‡Q wK bv Ges Fabric Defects 100 % check Ki‡Z n‡e|

Bundle wb‡q Dc‡iv³ points ¸wj check Ki‡Z n‡e|

wet `ªt Cutter Gi Knife cÖwZ †m‡K‡Û 180 evi DVv bvgv K‡i|

Marker check.

Marker check Kivi wKQz wbqg ev wbZxgvjv wb‡¤œ †`Iqv n‡jv t-

4. Ifvi †jwcs Av‡Q wK bv Zvnv †`L‡Z n‡e|

5. me mvBR Gi cvU©‡mi Dci mvBR ev MÖæc †jLv wVK Av‡Q wK bv Zvnv †`L‡Z n‡e| Ges mvBR Abyhvqx c¨vUvb© Øviv wgwj‡q †`L‡Z n‡e| ‡Kvb cvU©m Kg, †ekx, ev fzj ÎæwU Av‡Q wK bv Zvnv †`L‡Z n‡e|hw` mvgvb¨Zg fzj cvIqv hvq Zv n‡j Ab¨ is Gi Kvwj Øviv Zvnv wVK K‡i w`‡Z n‡e | Avi hw` eo ai‡bi fzj cvIqv hvq Zv n‡j bZzb K‡i c~bivq gvK©vi Ki‡Z n‡e|

QUESTION : How many kinds of marker?

Marker mainly 2 kinds.

1. Computerize

2. Manually.

MARKER

1. Panel marker

2. Group marker

3. Block marker

4. Salvage marker

5. Supper salvage marker

6. One way marker

MARKER CONSUMPTION/DZN

Marker length + loss

Marker width + loss

Marker height

Note : Marker height would depend on fabric nature.

Consumption calculation/formula

Marker length = 18.19" inch,

At first 19" inch convert to yds + yds = Total marker length yds ÷ How many pieces of marker = consumption per pes.

Formula

Marker length 18 yds 19 "÷ 36 = 0.52 yds,

18 + 0.52 = 18.52 yds 18.52 + 2 % = 18.89 yds 18.89 ÷ 12 = 1.57 yds per pes

1.57 into 100 pes garments =157 yds fabric need for cutting.

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Cutting Quality Control in apparel industry